Tyres are the only part of your car that touches the road, so knowing when to replace them is one of the simplest ways to stay safe. There's no single number — it comes down to tread, age and condition.

Check the tread depth

In Australia the legal minimum tread is 1.5 mm, but grip and wet-weather braking drop off well before that. Most tyres have small tread-wear indicators moulded into the grooves. When the tread is level with those bars, the tyre is worn out.

Watch the age, not just the wear

Rubber hardens over time even if the tread looks fine. As a general guide, tyres older than five to six years should be inspected, and most manufacturers suggest replacing them by around ten years regardless of tread. You can find the age from the four-digit date code on the sidewall.

Signs it's time

• Tread worn to the indicator bars or below 3 mm.
• Cracks, bulges, or cuts in the sidewall.
• Vibration, pulling, or uneven wear across the tread.

If you're unsure, a quick tyre check is free and only takes a few minutes. It's cheap peace of mind for something this important.

The string of numbers and letters on your tyre sidewall isn't random. Once you know what each part means, buying the right replacement is much easier.

Breaking down 205/55 R16 91V

• 205 — the tyre width in millimetres.
• 55 — the aspect ratio: the sidewall height as a percentage of the width.
• R — radial construction (almost all modern tyres).
• 16 — the wheel diameter in inches.
• 91 — the load index (how much weight the tyre can carry).
• V — the speed rating.

Why it matters

Fitting tyres that match your car's placard keeps handling, braking and your speedo accurate. Going too narrow, too tall, or under the correct load rating can affect safety and even your rego.

Where to find the right size

Your recommended tyre size is on the tyre placard, usually inside the driver's door frame or in the owner's manual. If you're not sure, bring the car in and we'll match the correct size and rating for you.

A puncture doesn't always mean a new tyre. Whether it can be safely repaired depends on the size and location of the damage.

When a repair is safe

Small punctures — generally up to 6 mm — in the central tread area can usually be repaired with a proper plug-and-patch from the inside. This is the safe, long-lasting method, not just a plug on its own.

When it can't be repaired

• Damage in the sidewall or shoulder.
• Cuts or holes larger than 6 mm.
• A tyre that was driven on while flat and is now damaged inside.
• Multiple punctures close together.

Don't keep driving on a flat

Driving even a short distance on a flat tyre can destroy the internal structure, turning a repairable puncture into a replacement. If you can, stop safely and swap to your spare or call for help. Bring the tyre in and we'll tell you honestly whether it can be saved.

4WD and SUV tyres come in a few distinct types, and picking the right one makes a big difference to comfort, grip and running costs.

The three main types

• Highway terrain (H/T) — quiet, comfortable and fuel-efficient. Ideal if you mostly drive on sealed roads.
• All terrain (A/T) — a versatile middle ground with more off-road grip while staying civilised on the highway.
• Mud terrain (M/T) — aggressive tread for serious off-road use, but noisier and thirstier on the road.

Match the tyre to your driving

If you tow, travel long distances, or rarely leave the bitumen, highway or all-terrain tyres usually make the most sense. If you regularly hit trails, sand or mud, a more aggressive tyre earns its keep.

Don't forget load and size

Heavier vehicles and towing need the correct load rating. We can talk through how and where you drive and recommend a tyre that balances grip, comfort and cost for your 4WD or SUV.